Less than 500 to go and the Meseta

The sublime Mesata after the bustle of the bid city of Burgos. It’s starts as a gentle climb and then in an endless sky of pasture and few villages so just you the walk and the sky. Stayed in the village of Horniillos del Camino which is one of the few remaining medieval villages left in Spain. Great pilgrim meal for dinner.

only a short walk today and spent time doing not much in the afternoon which is a real thrill after two weeks of non stop walking.

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Kindness from a fleeting moment

the road into Burgos was a bugger most of the day was through industrial city streets and not enjoyable again all. I had hit the wall about 3km from the nights albergue and pretty much thought this was A stupid idea to be on the walk. I was standing at traffic lights waiting for them to change when a local man walking by just put his hand on my arm said some words, smiled and kept walking. It made my day.

stayed at the albergue about 3 min walk from the catherderal so caught up with the mob and had the pilgrims lunch in the square in front of the church. Did the catherderal tour but my feet hurt so it was more a case of rushing through so I could go and lie down.

once again at lunch at 2 (not in this photo didn’t have my camera) so I am changing the picture to today@10 so I really am on the trail.


Cuckoo clocks

my epithany so far is that I know why cuckoo clocks sound like they do!! It’s because that’s what they sound like in the wild, who would have thought.

mostly walking through oak and pine forests today and stopped for lunch at 2 in the small village of St. Juan De Ortega befit a short walk to Agés for the night. Still walking slower than I thought  I would.

also started on my letter to Artie for his 21st hopefully finished before I get to Santiago

Lunch @2 in St.Juan De Ortega

Wind, just wind

Started heading into the wind and so cold had to put jumper and raincoat back on to get warm. High wind in the face most of the day and fairly boring just following the highway most of the day.

arrived in Belorado around 2, so this is the main square for today’s @2

Belorado main square

Ciruena or walk 8km more?

long day today and was planning to stay in Ciruena which is a quite deserted New dormitory town on hard times where it looked like most of the new houses were for sale. It was a bit depressing and wondered how many people does it make to make a community. So keep walking into Santo Domingo de la Calzada a municipality in La Rioja, situated on the banks of the Oja River. Its name refers to its founder, Dominic de la Calzada, who built a bridge, hospital, and hotel here for pilgrims on the Way of St. James. The town’s Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada is dedicated to him and also famous for having live chickens in the church.

Two photos one for Ciruena at 2 and another’s just outside the town.

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The pilgrims shuffle

how do you tell a pilgrim when they have stopped walking for the day? Watch them get out of a chair and try and start walking, it’s few shuffles from your feet before they get the message that you’re on the move but then the calves and ankles still haven’t got the message and you have to sort of wait with the pain to get it all back in sync.

Only a short walk today to the small village of Ventosa staying in the private albergue which is where I was @ 2. Out the back upstairs there is a small rooftop garden where it is quite relaxing just to sit awhile.

Albergue Santurinino in Ventosa

Duelling snorers

came across the dreaded snorers lat night and one of them could’ve won an Olympic gold medal given he shook the bunk bed. Earplugs and an extra pillow couldn’t drown it out.

Long walk today (28.6) from Los Arcos to Logroño mostly on good track but my physical limit for now is about the 25km before i start running out of energy and the last few k’s are a real slog for now. Tomorrow will be about 30.1 yay!

Still it’s worth it when you get into town and find a bed for the night then go and sit like a local in the town square and just relax into the atmosphere. It’s a public holiday long weekend so even pilgrim dormitory beds are hard to find but the upside is the locals are in holiday mode. 

Usual picture of 2ish just walking down into Logroño. Will post more into the Dropbox site of the 12th century plaza and church.


Today@2 what did the Romans ever do for us……….


Apart from leaving roads still walked on 2000 years later. Leaving the old town of Cirauqui the walk takes the old roman road for a few k’s but age is wearying them as its a bit rough on the feet.

I was the slowest walker on the trail today barely making 2-3km/h and being passed by all and seriously by an old man carrying his dog.
Staying tonight at Estella with lots of history but today’s phot is just outside Villatuerta.image